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  • #46
    Re: Official Oil change discussion

    I've always done my own oil changes. I don't believe in "ten minute" oil changes. I let mine drain until it's not drippnig at all.

    I run Castrol Syntec Blend with a K&N filter. Always have, always will.......... I dont' know bout any advantage to the filter, but I LOVE the wrench end on em though! I'lll probably switch over to full syntec at around 50,000 miles or so
    Project G:

    Custom intake/ home made ram air. Magnaflow muffler/ resonator delete. Painted/custom interior, Rebadged, 15% tint.
    Sprint Performance Lowering Springs


    Pix here: http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp119/tommyboy1587/

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    • #47
      Re: Official Oil change discussion

      Changed my cars oil for the first time today, let it get down to around 40%. Royal Purple and Mobile filters for me.

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      • #48
        Re: Official Oil change discussion

        glad to see someone uses Royal Purple!
        I can't use it in the lt1 because even with brand new seals and optical distributor assembly (optispark II), it tends to migrate directly into the optical shutters of the distributor.
        I run Valvoline Maxlife or durablend in the the Z-28 and the GTO but was pondering running RP in the G6.
        I typically run Baldwin or K&N oil filters.
        Baldwin for sheer performance filtering! K&N as a second for convenience and availability.

        What is a realistic first change mileage figure?
        I'm not going to run it 'till the indicator says change for sure, but was wondering what others have done.
        thanks,
        tal

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        • #49
          Re: Official Oil change discussion

          Well, here goes.

          My 6 has lower than average miles for the year, but I prefer to run a good, quality oil in it, irregardless of factory warranty. My dealer is terrible to begin with but that's another story in itself.

          So, here's my lay down. Last fall I decided to go with Amsoil 0W30 signature oil, which is good for up to 25K miles along with the filter. I won't drive that in a year anyway, so don't worry, but as I'm an avid auto-stick user when I drive, I want good oil. With filter it cost me about $70 CDN for four quarts of 0W30. I've put on 7,000kms (4K) since early fall when it was installed and it's not even remotely dark coloured yet. I'll more than likely only put on another 5-6K before changing it out, but I do 'abuse' the engine by keeping it on boil when driving in town.

          As I have a fleet of vehicles (currently own and operate a light landscape firm), I build custom ramps out of 2"x10"x10' boards cut in half and cut appropriately to make sure all my lower than usual vehicles will fit. This way, I can get under the vehicle on a crawler which makes moving around MUCH easier.

          The G6 3.5L is one of the EASIEST engines I've ever had the pleasure changing oil on. Everything is well within arms distance of the front bumper (well almost). The filter is easy to get to and draining the oil is a lot less messy when compared to my other vehicles.




          2006 Pontiac G6 GT (stock) - 44,000kms
          2000 Dodge Durango R/T (modded) - 185,000kms
          1999 Ford Taurus SE 2V (stock) - 206,000kms

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          • #50
            Re: Official Oil change discussion

            Wow, that looks kinda nasty under there. You got a fluid leak somewhere or is that grime off the road?

            Sorry but
            Mods: Tint, Resonator Delete, K&N Filter, GT-R Exhaust, GXP rear bumper, Debadged

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            • #51
              Re: Official Oil change discussion

              ^

              Something is going on under there
              TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

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              • #52
                Re: Official Oil change discussion

                Trans cooler lines are leaking at the crimps..... I have the same problem.... yours looks a lot worse than mine though... make sure you check your trans level.....
                My Progression Thread - Previous Car | My CarDomain | G6Performance CarDomain Group
                Current Mods: Canucks Motorsports lowering kit (1.75")
                In Progress Mods:None Yet
                Upcoming Mods: WAMS ECM/TCM Tune | CAI | Rims/Tires | R1 Brakes

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                • #53
                  Re: Official Oil change discussion

                  Soooo decided to change my oil today - went to a buddies house to do it because its freakin cold out and my garage was full of junk. Bought a 5 quart jug at my local shop - they had a deal going and it was cheaper than 4 single bottles. To shorten this story, I asked my buddy to pour the oil while I cleaned up under the car. I stopped him before he got the full 5 in.....

                  So right now Im looking at about half a quart, maybe a little more, over.

                  Big deal? Should I drain a little bit off? I'm probably going to regardless because Im weird like that but whats the worst that can happen?

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                  • #54
                    Re: Official Oil change discussion

                    Originally posted by Surt
                    Soooo decided to change my oil today - went to a buddies house to do it because its freakin cold out and my garage was full of junk. Bought a 5 quart jug at my local shop - they had a deal going and it was cheaper than 4 single bottles. To shorten this story, I asked my buddy to pour the oil while I cleaned up under the car. I stopped him before he got the full 5 in.....

                    So right now Im looking at about half a quart, maybe a little more, over.

                    Big deal? Should I drain a little bit off? I'm probably going to regardless because Im weird like that but whats the worst that can happen?
                    Overfilled by a half quart is no big deal. Any more I would drain the excess off as you will run the risk of oil aeration and starvation.

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                    • #55
                      Re: Official Oil change discussion

                      Originally posted by Surt

                      ...whats the worst that can happen?

                      worst that can happen is engine blows you crash into a nuclear power plant it explodes with a force 10x greater then the Hiroshima bomb the US thinks that it was Russia and nukes them they get mad and nuke us back ultimatly causing a nuclear war and the end of the world

                      thats the worst that could happen. what will happen probly nothing

                      Remember if "the" and "and" are spelled right its not a genuine Ahuhn post


                      Dear God, please send clothes to all those poor ladies in Daddy's computer. Amen.
                      Originally posted by snowmanG6
                      you would try to tape a poptart to her then give her a bag a skittles and tell her to fart a rainbow

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                      • #56
                        Re: Official Oil change discussion

                        if overfilled too much the lobes on the crank will slap the oil causing it to foam....obviously oil foam isn't the best lubricator on the planet lol
                        TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

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                        • #57
                          Re: Official Oil change discussion

                          I use Mobil1 Synthetic 0W30 with the green cap, and an AC Delco filter. For convenience, I may start taking it to a small garage for Amsoil and just have my tires rotated right away as well each time.
                          Mods: Full Crab Intake and FPU kit, GT-R Exhaust
                          Summer Hopes: Bottom ram air snorkel, Aftermarket radio, Design a small out-of-sight stealth sub box (no trunk), Tinted windows
                          Next Year: Performance rotors and pads, extra monitors in headrests in addition to the stock console screen

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                          • #58
                            Re: Official Oil change discussion

                            Hi there,
                            For some of you this might be obvious, but I thought I'd offer a write up. When searching the forum, I couldn't find a step by step for us Ecotec folks, so here it is.

                            Tools needed:
                            15mm shallow socket, 3/8" drive ratchet
                            Ramps or jack stands, whichever you prefer to safely raise your car
                            Rear wheel blocks
                            1-1/4" Open end wrench
                            Oil and filter from your favorite auto supplier.
                            Funnel

                            So first thing, I was a little surprised by the filter I bought for my car. I am used to conventional spin on filters, the Ecotec uses a cartridge. I guess GM had to live up to the Ecotec name by less waste for routine maintenance.

                            1) Run your car for a few minutes to warm the oil. Shut off the engine and open your hood and remove your oil cap. This helps the oil drain quicker.
                            2) Raise the vehicle safely using jack stands or ramps. Be sure to set your parking brake and block the rear wheels for good measure. Before venturing under the car, it’s a good idea to grasp the car and shake side to side to ensure it is raised securely.
                            3) Grab your favorite pan to drain the oil in. Bring your 15mm socket and ratchet with you.
                            4) Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to completely drain in the pan. Grab a rag, t-shirt, paper towel (anything but peanut butter) and clean up the drain plug.
                            5) Reinstall drain plug and tighten snugly with your ratchet.
                            6) Carefully remove your pan full of oil and set aside. Put it someplace where you, your dog, your kids won’t step in!
                            7) Look next to the dipstick. See that black plastic cap that looks like a PVC cap for plumbing? Your oil filter cartridge is in there. I’ve read removing the engine cover or intake is necessary, or buying a crows foot wrench is needed to remove the plug. I used a standard, open ended 1-1/4” wrench and did NOT find it necessary to remove the engine cover or intake. You can attack it from the front of the car using the open end of the wrench. Apply firm pressure and unscrew the cap (The closed end of the wrench will be raised slightly)
                            With your fingers you can lift the cap off. The old cartridge will be attached to the cap. Pull the old cartridge out gently. It will pop off. Install the new cartridge ensuring it snaps back into the cap.
                            9) Remove and replace the black o-ring if visual inspection shows it needs replacing. There is an orange o-ring too, just leave it alone as my filter kit did not include it.
                            10) Re-install the black plastic cap. Tighten finger tight then use your 1-1/4” wrench to gently tighten it up.
                            11) Grab your funnel and add your fresh oil. My car took a full 5 liter bottle.
                            12) Check the dipstick, make sure you’re on the right track.
                            13) Run the car for a few minutes, check the dipstick again and make sure there are no leaks.
                            14) Remove your rear wheel blocks and lower the car.
                            15) Reset your Oil Life indicator by entering to the function and holding Enter. The function is in the menu.
                            16) Grab your funnel and empty your old oil from your pan back into the container that had your fresh oil. Take it to the recyclers!

                            Job well done. You’re good for a few thousand miles / km’s.

                            Cheers,
                            Adam

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                            • #59
                              Re: Official Oil change discussion

                              Just a question for some of you here:

                              Why are you running 0W30 when I thought all of our cars take 5W30?
                              "Cross creviced chasms vast, and endless plains of unshaven ass"
                              ~~GWAR's description of Hell
                              SkaĆ°i: 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP Street Edition

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                              • #60
                                Re: Official Oil change discussion

                                they are supposed to take 5W30. 0W30 can be used but it doesnt need to be

                                Remember if "the" and "and" are spelled right its not a genuine Ahuhn post


                                Dear God, please send clothes to all those poor ladies in Daddy's computer. Amen.
                                Originally posted by snowmanG6
                                you would try to tape a poptart to her then give her a bag a skittles and tell her to fart a rainbow

                                Comment

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