Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's, 19mm Spacers Installed - Koni's Shock Conversion Installed

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6

Correct me if im misunderstanding but are you saying you only used an 1/8tank and it normally takes 1/2 tank to do that trip? Thats a pretty big increase.

Yarp, that's what it it looked like. been babying the pedal to see my mpg I can get now.

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6

Hey guys,

So Shela just hit 124k last night and I think it's time for new front rotors. The R1Concepts Elines in the front have served me well; I had them put on @ around I think 45k so I got my money worth out of them and they have about 80k miles on them so that's pretty good considering I've had to do quite a few 65 to 15 mph slams a few times with moron NJ drivers..... When I bought the Elines I presumed they'd be good but with the amount of braking I do for people (in NJ) that don't comprehend the concept of 1 car spacing I need a stronger rotor so I'm getting the Premier former the Premium R1Concepts rotors. If this still doesn't make my braking better Brembo's will be my next undertaking....

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6

So *UPDATE*:

Sent the R1Concept Premier rotors back today and R1 is swapping them with a 2008 Cobalt SS Brembo Rotor and the F1000 pads. Now I just ordered the Brembo's off Amazon and with my Prime account they were $40 cheaper than normal (gotta love Prime) so all I need now is the pins and Bryant SS lines to connect them.

Pondering if I might need 5mm spacers or if getting 15mm spacer would be better. I'd need the extender bolts if I went 15mm but since I'm doing the rotors putting bigger spacers on at the same time is the same labor....

I also think I'm going to paint them Red....

Anyone know if the Brembo labels come with them or if I need to order them separately?

[bjohnsong6]

Re: Deathmage's G6

I'm pretty sure the labels come with them

[Lampoon]

Re: Deathmage's G6

You need new ones if your repainting.

[theshibbykumquat]

Re: Deathmage's G6

Brembos come with the logo screen printed on them. If youre going to paint them youll need new ones, IIRC I got mine at HouseofGrafx, they were like 4" by 1" in size

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6

Brembo Supplies ordered .... about 14 days give or take for it all to arrive.


1x - 25900763 (LH Caliper) ($197.81 on Amazon)
1x - 25900764 (RH Caliper) ($133.22 on Amazon)
1x - 25808929 (Brake Pads) ($125.88 on R1Concepts)
2x - 25900781 (Pin Kit) ($25.80 from Crate Engine Depot)
2x - PDS.62116.P (Rotors) ($210.99 (20% discount) from R1concepts - Slotted/Drilled Premier Rotors)

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6

sneak peak....

one arrived today, 1 day shipping with Amazon Prime, the other will be here tomorrow.







I sort of like them in this black look; might keep them this way....

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6

Update: the rotors are Premier Slotted (High-Carbon) Rotors, opt'd at the last second after talking with co-workers that since it's high carbon it cools better as it is so I just got slotted rotors. drilled ones would cool it quicker and thus cause less friction that could make braking worst....

[cmessick]

Re: Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's arrived! - Koni's Full Conversion Installed

Uh.. wut

sent via space transponder

[CruisinG6]

Re: Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's arrived! - Koni's Full Conversion Installed

Uh.. wut

sent via space transponder

I second that

[theshibbykumquat]

Re: Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's arrived! - Koni's Full Conversion Installed

All brake rotors are made of cast iron, aka gray iron, ASTM G3000 included, pretty much all can be considered to have high carbon relatively. So long as they are slotted and not drilled they should be fine, drilled rotors can crack at the holes. I like the blank OEM rotors since the heat capacity is pretty much dependent on the rotor mass itself, the less material removed the better in my book... But stick with the OEM Brembo pad's and you should have great results

[theshibbykumquat]

Re: Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's arrived! - Koni's Full Conversion Installed

Also the stock black coating should pretty much last forever, it's anodized aluminum or similar, won't chip like a powder coated or painted caliper. Just don't use an acidic wheel cleaner or else the coating will fade as it eats away at the aluminum...

[cmessick]

Re: Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's arrived! - Koni's Full Conversion Installed

drilled ones would cool it quicker and thus cause less friction that could make braking worst....

In no world is a hotter brake a better brake.. race teams and performance car manufacturers have spent A LOT of money on brake COOLING, just look at the new vette and its brake cooling air ducts

All brake rotors are made of cast iron, aka gray iron, ASTM G3000 included, pretty much all can be considered to have high carbon relatively. So long as they are slotted and not drilled they should be fine, drilled rotors can crack at the holes. I like the blank OEM rotors since the heat capacity is pretty much dependent on the rotor mass itself, the less material removed the better in my book... But stick with the OEM Brembo pad's and you should have great results

while i don't disagree with the principles here.. there are some other facts that shouldn't be overlooked

drilled rotors should be suggested over slots. if you buying cheap, done in someone's garage drilled rotors, yea, stay away from those, but good drilled rotors are either drilled prior to final heat treat, or cryo'd after processing and reheat treated. The shape of the drilled hole is almost as important as the heat treat itself, but both done right prevent the stress risers that crack the rotors. Generally, factory rotors with surface manipulation are drilled and NOT slotted.

The drilled holes do more than one thing, they evacuate brake pad gasses that cause brake fade and lack of response promoting a better braking cycle, and provide a larger surface area for the brake to cool, which is the idea behind sun cut rotors. The whole idea here is to expel the heat gained during braking to provide a more reliable and consistent stop.

Slots are a different beast altogether. Slots provide a cutting edge to scrape away pad material softened by hard braking. Yes, there is an ability to vent brake gases as well, but they are mainly designed for pad surface maintenance. A properly functioning brake pad remains solid at the surface to provide the most friction, pad material softening or becoming liquid prior to gasing, only reduces the pads ability to create that friction. These slots scrape away the softened material leaving behind the solid material underneath.



Heat capacity of the rotor is largely non-relevant to modern rotors. Its ability to expel the heat gained during a braking cycle is the most critical factor today. With the insufficiently sized rotors we have, we need to look for anything we can do to reduce the heat retention and promote heat rejection and better care for the pad surface. I opted for a set of double drilled and slotted rotors, and have not seen the brake pulsing these cars are so prone to. (which many owners associate with warping). The pulsing is due to uneven wear of the rotor by getting it too hot during braking, and causing a large deposit of pad material to be stuck to the rotor which can be hard to wear off. Keeping my rotors cooler has helped me maintain these rotors, and has been the bane of many tailgaters.

[Deathmage]

Re: Deathmage's G6 - Brembo's arrived! - Koni's Full Conversion Installed

In no world is a hotter brake a better brake.. race teams and performance car manufacturers have spent A LOT of money on brake COOLING, just look at the new vette and its brake cooling air ducts





while i don't disagree with the principles here.. there are some other facts that shouldn't be overlooked

drilled rotors should be suggested over slots. if you buying cheap, done in someone's garage drilled rotors, yea, stay away from those, but good drilled rotors are either drilled prior to final heat treat, or cryo'd after processing and reheat treated. The shape of the drilled hole is almost as important as the heat treat itself, but both done right prevent the stress risers that crack the rotors. Generally, factory rotors with surface manipulation are drilled and NOT slotted.

The drilled holes do more than one thing, they evacuate brake pad gasses that cause brake fade and lack of response promoting a better braking cycle, and provide a larger surface area for the brake to cool, which is the idea behind sun cut rotors. The whole idea here is to expel the heat gained during braking to provide a more reliable and consistent stop.

Slots are a different beast altogether. Slots provide a cutting edge to scrape away pad material softened by hard braking. Yes, there is an ability to vent brake gases as well, but they are mainly designed for pad surface maintenance. A properly functioning brake pad remains solid at the surface to provide the most friction, pad material softening or becoming liquid prior to gasing, only reduces the pads ability to create that friction. These slots scrape away the softened material leaving behind the solid material underneath.



Heat capacity of the rotor is largely non-relevant to modern rotors. Its ability to expel the heat gained during a braking cycle is the most critical factor today. With the insufficiently sized rotors we have, we need to look for anything we can do to reduce the heat retention and promote heat rejection and better care for the pad surface. I opted for a set of double drilled and slotted rotors, and have not seen the brake pulsing these cars are so prone to. (which many owners associate with warping). The pulsing is due to uneven wear of the rotor by getting it too hot during braking, and causing a large deposit of pad material to be stuck to the rotor which can be hard to wear off. Keeping my rotors cooler has helped me maintain these rotors, and has been the bane of many tailgaters.

Only time will tell how these slotted rotor hold up..... If I get about 20k out of them I'd be happy; there only about $160 for rotors and $100 for pads, no big deal really....