excuse me mistype meant DIC sry
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How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
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As i understand car batteries.......
OEM batteries are nothing to sneeze at if your running stock. I had a OEM battery in my previous car for 9 years before it died on me. Now, if youre running a custom system, your OEM battery will be recharged moroften then it was designed for (hence the shorter life of the battery). An ULTIMA Deep Cycle battery as i understand ha been designed so multiple recharges dont hurt the cells as bad. Soo...there is really no extra power advantage to an Ultima battery, just reliability IMO....
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
I'd really love getting some pictures to compliment this how-to. My lights are dimming because of my sound system.. I've been calling around to places to get this done but they don't know what I mean. I don't care if the job is tedious, I'll do it myself... I just need a better/more thorough guideline - if that is at all possible!
Running a 2007 G6 GT Sedan... aftermarket system was installed by futureshop, 657 watts RMS infinity amplifier with two 300 watts RMS infinity subs, with a 1.3 farad capacitor, too. I'm really hoping the big 3 upgrade solves my issue.
Thanks in advance for anyone that can provide more detail to these steps!
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
hey guys. the big 3 is the way to go.
I went to school for electronics, so I kinda know whats going on. without a wire large enough to support the current, you're car won't be able to output its 100% efficiency. upgrade the big 3, this will most likely solve your probs..if not, you have to get your engine to produce more wattage. currently your engine's battery recharges itself while your car is on - your alternator charges your battery. with this in mind, a larger alternator can produce more current, thus decreasing the voltage drops on across the battery - which leads to your headlights, stereo etc. I believe a cap will benefit your system, but I wouldn't waste my money buying one into a car stereo..unless you're running 10,000+ watts, then you shouldn't be asking questions, cause you should know what your doing if you're spending thousands of dollars on your stereo..your car stereo at that.
It'd be good to get some pics of this..I'm getting my stereo installed soon, so I'm going to need some resources.
- Alpine IVA-w505 7" DVD with built in Blackbird GPS
- JL 1000.1 Amp
- JL 12" W7
- 10% Front Tint, 5% Rear
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
Originally posted by D13thI'd really love getting some pictures to compliment this how-to. My lights are dimming because of my sound system.. I've been calling around to places to get this done but they don't know what I mean. I don't care if the job is tedious, I'll do it myself... I just need a better/more thorough guideline - if that is at all possible!
Running a 2007 G6 GT Sedan... aftermarket system was installed by futureshop, 657 watts RMS infinity amplifier with two 300 watts RMS infinity subs, with a 1.3 farad capacitor, too. I'm really hoping the big 3 upgrade solves my issue.
Thanks in advance for anyone that can provide more detail to these steps!
Edit.. here you go.
There may be other guides out there as well, just trace your wire and you'll see which ones. And don't replace the whole wire, to save time you can just add on top of it.
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
OK everyone seems to make this hard I have a system in my car and its a lil bit wicked...I run a 300 amp fuse to my amp which is pushing right at 2600 watts rms...I installed a optima yellow gel battery on it in the trunk with the speakers is hidden not seen and I am having much better sound no light dimming is deep cycle will take forever to run down...had a farad cap is great for a lil system but basically on mine it just pissed me off...I run 2 12's have ultra deep bass can hit 20's and lower if I care too....but dont wasdte ur time on a farad cap just install a gel deep cycle is expensive but you'll be happyChrome tinted 20% all around...fixin to mod the crap out of it...Finally a CAI..boomin yeah pyle mono 3600 watt amp...audiopipe comp 12's :-( 1 foot of usable trunk space but worth it I hit hard
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
Originally posted by Rad420OK everyone seems to make this hard I have a system in my car and its a lil bit wicked...I run a 300 amp fuse to my amp which is pushing right at 2600 watts rms...I installed a optima yellow gel battery on it in the trunk with the speakers is hidden not seen and I am having much better sound no light dimming is deep cycle will take forever to run down...had a farad cap is great for a lil system but basically on mine it just pissed me off...I run 2 12's have ultra deep bass can hit 20's and lower if I care too....but dont wasdte ur time on a farad cap just install a gel deep cycle is expensive but you'll be happy
- Alpine IVA-w505 7" DVD with built in Blackbird GPS
- JL 1000.1 Amp
- JL 12" W7
- 10% Front Tint, 5% Rear
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
I wish this How To had pictures.Current: Kicker L7 12" with Sundown Amp, DrS CAB, GT-R Exhaust, 93 VMS ECU, red LED interior, 20% tint all around, blinging wheels, Red Calipers, tinted tails, angel eyes, 8000k HIDs, Eibachs Pro Springs, MPD Hood, custom mounted front door speakers
August East Coast Meet Thread
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
I've been reading a little bit of a few sites regarding the big 3 upgrade and i've gathered the process but i wanted to verify and i have a few questions
The 3 wires are... Alternator + to battery +; Battery - to chassis; Alternator mounting post to chassis (aka engine to chassis)
1) I believe disposablehero had said connect the alternator + to the fuse box + and also the fuse box - to the battery -, would that be followed with the battery - to the chassis (ground)?
2) Is going through the fuse box necessary? Could i just go from alt + to battery + directly and battery - to chassis, and alternator mounting post to chassis all directly? Do i have to fuse the connection from the battery + to the alt + with a 300A fuse (or lower)?
Thanks guys.. hopefully i have this straight so i can get it done quickly and efficiently tomorrow. I also plan on documenting it for a nice assisted how-to to disposablehero's.
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
Can someone help explain something to me... This how to seems to only add 2 wires alternator positive to battery and battery negative to chassis... I also read you have to do alternator negative to chissis or alternator mounting post to chassis or something like that... But where is this wire I can't seem to find the wire cuz there are so many wires around the alternator :S thanks for any helpAppearance: Sexy Electric Blue Metallic - 35% Tint, , Painted Calipers, Spyder Halo Projector Headlights, Red Under Dash LED's, Lower Grill Chrome Trim
Performance: Canuck Lowering Springs, Crabs O3 + FPU, Custom Dual Muffler Borla Exhaust, Front Adjustable End Links
Audio: Kenwood DNX5120 Double din, Hifonics HFI1000.1 Mono Amp, RE SEX12D4 12" Subwoofer (pushing 750w), Alpine Type S 6x9 Speakers, Jensen Power 720 amp
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Re: How-To Sound System Must, The big 3
Originally posted by xlemosx View PostCan someone help explain something to me... This how to seems to only add 2 wires alternator positive to battery and battery negative to chassis... I also read you have to do alternator negative to chissis or alternator mounting post to chassis or something like that... But where is this wire I can't seem to find the wire cuz there are so many wires around the alternator :S thanks for any help
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