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What you need to know about sub and amp selection

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  • #16
    Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

    so i don't really know much about subs/amps/etc buti was priced for 2 12in orion subs in the box w/ 800 watt amp w/ cables for 450..would this be a decent system to start out with?

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    • #17
      Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

      Amps: If you are getting an amp for subs I will tell you from experience, go with a D series monoblock. They will work worlds beeter than A or B. They stay cooler, can hold more power and they do not clip as much as the A/B series that you can get. There are many varitions that you can run them so you just have to pick the proper OHMage so you do not under power or over power your subs and destroy them which will happen.

      Subs: you do not need anything crazy to get good bass response. Myself I had 2 JBL 12" 1000's and a 12" Kicker Solobaric in my trunk and they hit well. I then switched to 2 10" RF P3D4's on a spec ported box and they hit even harder than the previous setup. There are many vaiations that you can do with it, just be sure to do your homework before you purchase your subs. Dont listen to the saleman at the store because they will tell you that they are the best of the best and blah blah blah. Ask around, many people will give you great advice on this complete subject matter. Experience is key.

      Boxes: As stated before it is very simple. Sealed enclosures with give you great response and tight bass to keep it clean ie; Rock, Heavy metal, anything with a very fast beat. Now ported boxes are used for SPL mainly which is the loudness of the system itself. Again this setup is great if you want a lot of noise coming from you trunk lol. Rap, Hip-hop, R&B etc. You also have bandpass boxes, personal prefernce I would stay away from them. They are really not that great and to useless if you ask me. They only focus on one frequency tuning wise and before or after that you basically lose you power that you are pushing. Sealed boxes are good for all setups as long as you make sure the box is to specs to ensure best performance. Poerted boxes you want to make sure meet the requirements for your subs not being to small, which would cause under performance and to big which will do the same and possible bottom out your subs rendering them useless.

      Sound Dampener: This is nice to have because it stops the rattle that you get from your trunk and side panels that you would get if you are using your subs to a high spec. It also raises the SPL level giving you a louder system do to the reflex of the sound not vibrating into the panels but reflecting back and allowing better response. If you are serious into making it loud this is a must. It can be a little expensive, but what you see in results as a return it is well worth it. There are many brands to go with but agaiun do your homework and read reviews, that is your best way to see what will work best for your setup since every setup is different.

      Also if you are running subs, I would suggest getting boomer mounts to cover your 6x9s because you can blow them very quickly if you setup is moving enough air around and is loud enough. Personal experience that is why I recommend them so you do not ruin them.

      If there is anything else that you are wanting to know, I can help you regardless of what it is with audio and video in the G6. Feel free to PM if you have a questions or concerns. Hope this helped some people out adding on to what was said earlier on this post.
      2008 G6 GT "Vicky" Canucks Lowering Springs all 4 corners, Racingline STB, Racingline Grounding kit w/ Alt wire, custom CAI setup, 18" Konig Zero-in Rims wrapped in Toyo Proxes T1-R's, LED Running Boards, LED Foot Holds (front and back) resonator delete w/ Flowmaster Super 44 2.5 in/ dual 2.25 out mid body dump flush. KCR tune, custom paint and custom stitching throughout interior 2 RF P3D410's in spec ported box tuned to 34hz, 1500 watt SSL amp, 2 Farad Cap.

      Soon to come: Lower and Upper engine build, complete trans build and hardening, custom turbo setup, custom tune, Concept body kit.

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      • #18
        Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

        ^ Real quick add-on to what is said above.
        Class D amps are also more efficient than Class AB and A. For subs I would go with a Class D mono amp since it won't put as much of a strain as a Class AB/A would. And clipping comes more from how it's tuned rather than the amp itself.
        For subs, I recommend NEVER mixing subs, keep it all the same, whether you have two or ten.
        Boxes, in short, ported will be louder but "sloppier" sounding, best for rap/hip-hop. Sealed will be a cleaner sound and would work best for any genre really, just won't be as loud.

        I will elaborate with more info later.
        '08 G6 v6
        '10 Ninja 250 SE

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        • #19
          Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

          It doesnt always hold true with sealed and ported boxes. It all depends on the subs you get. Some perform best in a sealed enclosure, but most perform to a high DB in a ported box. If you really want to be in an SPL setup, go with an Aeroport box. This design always massive airflow for the subs which in turn means better gains for DB. Yes never ever use different subs in the same setup unless you are pairing them in seperate group ie; 2 15's on the same amp, 2 12's on the same amp etc. But always keep them in seperate enclosures. Clipping can also occur when your subs or speakers are trying to pull more power from your amp than what it is rated for as well, tuning as you said is also a major factor with clipping and how well your subs sound. When getting an amp, it is also good to make sure that it comes with a lowpass filter or some sort of equivilance to make sure the highs dont pass through your subs as this will damage them in the short term and long term.
          2008 G6 GT "Vicky" Canucks Lowering Springs all 4 corners, Racingline STB, Racingline Grounding kit w/ Alt wire, custom CAI setup, 18" Konig Zero-in Rims wrapped in Toyo Proxes T1-R's, LED Running Boards, LED Foot Holds (front and back) resonator delete w/ Flowmaster Super 44 2.5 in/ dual 2.25 out mid body dump flush. KCR tune, custom paint and custom stitching throughout interior 2 RF P3D410's in spec ported box tuned to 34hz, 1500 watt SSL amp, 2 Farad Cap.

          Soon to come: Lower and Upper engine build, complete trans build and hardening, custom turbo setup, custom tune, Concept body kit.

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          • #20
            Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

            Your speakers/subs can't pull power from the amp. It only uses the power that it's supplied.

            D class amps aren't always cooler than a/b amps. That depends on the design of the amp. I have a D class that runs hotter than most a/b class amps.

            Tbh using different subs doesn't matter. As long as your amp is stable at the final impedance, there will be no issue. Each sub will just get different amounts of power.

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            • #21
              Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

              If you are running a 2 or 4 ohm amp and your final impedance of your subs are 1 ohm or less then you can very well burn up your amp because it is over working the amp itself, same goes for vise versa which is why they tell you to match your amp to your setup.

              In the aspect of the Class d amps, let me make a switch as to what was said before. They are able to handle higher temps do to the nature the are built. Most do run cooler than an A/B/AB amp would in the same setup. Again it all is determined by your setup.

              The two different subs, it is not got for one amp to run two different subs at the same time. If you do you need to have a multi-channel amp to run them right. Same with box configuration. It is not good to run two different subs in a box because usually subs have different requirements for space and fitament. Grant yes they will work but you will not get the best out of your subs doing so if you have them in the same box unless they are completely seprate chambers. If not they will mess with each other do to their freqency set, excursion, etc.
              2008 G6 GT "Vicky" Canucks Lowering Springs all 4 corners, Racingline STB, Racingline Grounding kit w/ Alt wire, custom CAI setup, 18" Konig Zero-in Rims wrapped in Toyo Proxes T1-R's, LED Running Boards, LED Foot Holds (front and back) resonator delete w/ Flowmaster Super 44 2.5 in/ dual 2.25 out mid body dump flush. KCR tune, custom paint and custom stitching throughout interior 2 RF P3D410's in spec ported box tuned to 34hz, 1500 watt SSL amp, 2 Farad Cap.

              Soon to come: Lower and Upper engine build, complete trans build and hardening, custom turbo setup, custom tune, Concept body kit.

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              • #22
                Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                Originally posted by Wojcik View Post
                If you are running a 2 or 4 ohm amp and your final impedance of your subs are 1 ohm or less then you can very well burn up your amp because it is over working the amp itself, same goes for vise versa which is why they tell you to match your amp to your setup.
                That's basically what I said. Keep in mind there are plenty of amps capable of running at or below 1ohm.

                Originally posted by Wojcik View Post
                The two different subs, it is not got for one amp to run two different subs at the same time. If you do you need to have a multi-channel amp to run them right. Same with box configuration. It is not good to run two different subs in a box because usually subs have different requirements for space and fitament. Grant yes they will work but you will not get the best out of your subs doing so if you have them in the same box unless they are completely seprate chambers. If not they will mess with each other do to their freqency set, excursion, etc.
                Why would it not be good for your amp to have 2 different subs? It's not like it can tell. All it knows is the final impedance of the subs. It will not harm the sub to run 2 different subs with different impedances on the same channel. The amp doesn't care, so long as the amp is stable running at that impedance.

                You're right, they should not occupy the same chamber in a box. But that's not what I was talking about that. The amp doesn't care.
                Last edited by Dmanj; 02-28-2012, 03:57 PM.

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                • #23
                  Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                  The amp doesn't care

                  dmanj you in a electrical major by chance?
                  2007 Pontiac GTP...8000k HID's Low Bean...3000k HID's Fogs...Crab Intake...Custom LEDs ...Tint...Drilled and Slotted Rotors...Recessed Upper and Lower Grilles...Eagle Eye Headlights...Tinted Tails

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                  • #24
                    Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                    Electrical Engineering major yes

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                    • #25
                      Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                      Also how your system will perform is probably 85% based on how well of a box you made. You can have the best subs in the world but if it's in a poorly designed box it won't sound as good as just having decent subs in a box made perfectly for it.
                      '08 G6 v6
                      '10 Ninja 250 SE

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                      • #26
                        Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                        Originally posted by Dmanj View Post
                        Electrical Engineering major yes
                        Electro Mechanical Engineering here!! you just seemed to understand that nothing in electrical knows how or why it is getting whatever as long as it likes it!!
                        2007 Pontiac GTP...8000k HID's Low Bean...3000k HID's Fogs...Crab Intake...Custom LEDs ...Tint...Drilled and Slotted Rotors...Recessed Upper and Lower Grilles...Eagle Eye Headlights...Tinted Tails

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                        • #27
                          Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                          One of the courses I'm taking now is strictly circuit analysis, so circuit equivalence is something I have to know about.

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                          • #28
                            Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                            But in turn if you do not run a matching impedance with the sub combination with the amp then it can result in lower out put do to the factor being changed. Either way matching subs to one another keeps the system flowing nice and smooth without distrupting out out. I never said that you couldnt run 2 different subs to the same amp, I was just saying that it would be weird to do so because you would want your system to work with each other fluidly and not work against itself since it is a visual mod as well. Baseline, you want you final impedance of your subs to match the amp that you are using to run the system for the best results as it is your hard earned money being put into the system.
                            2008 G6 GT "Vicky" Canucks Lowering Springs all 4 corners, Racingline STB, Racingline Grounding kit w/ Alt wire, custom CAI setup, 18" Konig Zero-in Rims wrapped in Toyo Proxes T1-R's, LED Running Boards, LED Foot Holds (front and back) resonator delete w/ Flowmaster Super 44 2.5 in/ dual 2.25 out mid body dump flush. KCR tune, custom paint and custom stitching throughout interior 2 RF P3D410's in spec ported box tuned to 34hz, 1500 watt SSL amp, 2 Farad Cap.

                            Soon to come: Lower and Upper engine build, complete trans build and hardening, custom turbo setup, custom tune, Concept body kit.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                              If I replace the stock 6x9s with Kicker ones, do I still need a new amp? Or would I be able to use the stock one (if there is one)? I know absolutely nothing about stereos other than the fact that mine rattles......rather loudly.
                              Hit the tires and light the fires

                              Current Mods:
                              CRABs Option 3, Racingline TSB, Racingline Grounding Kit, Magnaflow Dual Exhaust/Resonator Delete, Taillight Bevels, RAZO Pedal Covers, Painted Engine Covers, Powerstop Brake Kit, Painted Calipers, Gorilla Red Lug Nuts, REMIN Dash Kit, BMD Endlinks, Painted mirror caps, Partial Debadge, Borbet MA wheels, Eibach lowering kit, Monroe shocks and struts

                              Future Mods:
                              AIT Front Bumper (Awaiting Paint/Installation), Concept Emblems (Awaiting Installation), NGK spark plugs, GTP Rear Bumper Cover, AIT Hood, FPU, CCFL headlights

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                              • #30
                                Re: What you need to know about sub and amp selection

                                Originally posted by nautical7 View Post
                                Also how your system will perform is probably 85% based on how well of a box you made. You can have the best subs in the world but if it's in a poorly designed box it won't sound as good as just having decent subs in a box made perfectly for it.
                                So true man!

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