as warrentys start to expire and steering shafts begin to clunk who wants to take it to a dealer to get it lubed when you can lube it yourself provided it is not a painted style i shaft. painted styles became standard on 2009 and up models but any 6 thats been to a dealer for the clunk noise and they replaced the shaft COULD have a painted i shaft. only way to tell is to visually inspect it to do that youll need to remove the close out panel on the drives side which is outlined in the first step
#1 is a non painted i shaft that CAN be lubed
#2 is a painted i shaft. If yours looks like that DO NOT LUBE!!!!!
there are 2 ways to lube ill provide both
both start the same way
remove the plastic close out panel under the drivers side of the insterment panel. it is held on with 2 7mm bolts
then there is a clip for the hood release cableon the panel. you just have to squeeze in the 2 tabs and it comes right out.
from there you have access to the i shaft
IMPORTANT: if after seeing the i shaft you notice that it has been painted DO NOT LUBRICATE. That "painted i shaft" does not tolerate lube and lubricating will only make the problem worse
the first way to lube it it to remove the pinch both from the top of the shaft(11mm) then pull it off the steering column
DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WITH THE SHAFT DISCONECTED DAMAGE TO THE AIR BAG COIL COULD RESULT. slight movement is ok but do not spin the wheel
with the shaft disconected fully extend it and place lube(GM part number 26098237) on the lowest part of the shaft where the 2 haves meet.
after applying the lube you need to "exercise" the shaft in and out a few times. you can then reinstall the shaft to the column and reinstall the closeout panel.
the second way does not require the shaft to be disconected from the column. all you have to do is after removing the closeout panel sparay lube inbetween the 2 shafts.after spraying turn the wheel 180 degrees and spray some more on the other side of the shaft as well. i use GM Superlube(p/n12346241) but i would imagine white lithium grease would have the same effect. this method is not as effective as the first method but it does work
#1 is a non painted i shaft that CAN be lubed
#2 is a painted i shaft. If yours looks like that DO NOT LUBE!!!!!
there are 2 ways to lube ill provide both
both start the same way
remove the plastic close out panel under the drivers side of the insterment panel. it is held on with 2 7mm bolts
then there is a clip for the hood release cableon the panel. you just have to squeeze in the 2 tabs and it comes right out.
from there you have access to the i shaft
IMPORTANT: if after seeing the i shaft you notice that it has been painted DO NOT LUBRICATE. That "painted i shaft" does not tolerate lube and lubricating will only make the problem worse
the first way to lube it it to remove the pinch both from the top of the shaft(11mm) then pull it off the steering column
DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WITH THE SHAFT DISCONECTED DAMAGE TO THE AIR BAG COIL COULD RESULT. slight movement is ok but do not spin the wheel
with the shaft disconected fully extend it and place lube(GM part number 26098237) on the lowest part of the shaft where the 2 haves meet.
after applying the lube you need to "exercise" the shaft in and out a few times. you can then reinstall the shaft to the column and reinstall the closeout panel.
the second way does not require the shaft to be disconected from the column. all you have to do is after removing the closeout panel sparay lube inbetween the 2 shafts.after spraying turn the wheel 180 degrees and spray some more on the other side of the shaft as well. i use GM Superlube(p/n12346241) but i would imagine white lithium grease would have the same effect. this method is not as effective as the first method but it does work
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