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Windows will not index after stereo install.

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  • Windows will not index after stereo install.

    Installed my stereo last night, and come to find out that my windows wil not index correctly. they will come down when you open the door, but not go back up. Also the drivers side window seems to go down alot farther than normal. Anyone have any ideas??


    Thanks
    Charlie

  • #2
    is the problem only when the radio is on? or off?

    sounds like you might of caught a wire during hookup

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    • #3
      All i installed was a sub in the rear. Did not touch the stock deck. The only wire i tapped was the green ignition wire in the door sill for the remote lead. The problem happens when the radio is on or off. The window does come down when i open the door, but does not go up when i close it.

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      • #4
        You need to reprogram them, consult your owner's manual on how to. Whenever you remove the power it forgets!

        John
        Mine - 2006 Black Grand Prix GXP

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        • #5
          Arrrrrrghh, LOL. Ok well at least i know its fixable. I was getting pretty scared. Brand new car and its already broken. Whew.

          Comment


          • #6
            let us know if you get them working again!!
            TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

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            • #7
              Yeah I would like to know as well. Same thing happend but I cannot roll them up or down at all.
              2007 G6 GT white convertible, monsoon, painted calipers, McCulloch 5300k lows, 5% rear, 35% front, Alpine MRP-M350 amp, 2 12" Memphis subwoofers, w/ amp turn off switch, custom LED's, Dynamat, digital capacitor, Katzkin leather.

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              • #8
                as john mentioned in his case they just have to be reprogrammed
                TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

                Comment


                • #9
                  They won't roll up or down. I understand resetting it but when you do that and you tap the button the window goes down. Mine doesn't.
                  2007 G6 GT white convertible, monsoon, painted calipers, McCulloch 5300k lows, 5% rear, 35% front, Alpine MRP-M350 amp, 2 12" Memphis subwoofers, w/ amp turn off switch, custom LED's, Dynamat, digital capacitor, Katzkin leather.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    welp I would say get a testlight or an ohm meter, pull the panels off and check the connection to the window motor to see if it's getting any power-if not then go further back towards the car and eventually you'll find a stop where there's power on one side but not the other.
                    TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well I got it working until I re-connected my amp turn on wire to the heated seats. After that what I did was move my seat up so I can adjust the amp controls and then again the fuse blew. Replaced it and still keeps on blowing. Earlier what I did was disconnect almost every fuse in the passenger panel except for the airbag and placed them back in. Pulled the heated seat fuse in the trunk fuse panel and rear quarter window fuse as well. I also earlier disconnected the passenger fuse panel completely. Is it possible that its because my amp wires are touching something metal such as the bracket under the seat even though the amp wires are insulated?
                      2007 G6 GT white convertible, monsoon, painted calipers, McCulloch 5300k lows, 5% rear, 35% front, Alpine MRP-M350 amp, 2 12" Memphis subwoofers, w/ amp turn off switch, custom LED's, Dynamat, digital capacitor, Katzkin leather.

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                      • #12
                        nah not if they're insulated it doesn't matter what they're touching, what I would do is find a new power source for the remote or power you have connected to the heated seat power-that should solve your problems.
                        TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well I re did my wiring and none of the amps power, ground, remote cables, and speaker wires are touching the bottom of the seat. Looks like it was the location of my remote turn on? Anyways its fixed but right now the remote turn on wire is jammed into the heated seat fuse. Should I change it?
                          2007 G6 GT white convertible, monsoon, painted calipers, McCulloch 5300k lows, 5% rear, 35% front, Alpine MRP-M350 amp, 2 12" Memphis subwoofers, w/ amp turn off switch, custom LED's, Dynamat, digital capacitor, Katzkin leather.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            a little off topic but a scary incident at the time.... I was drilling my firewall for the amp wire, and I dont know if it matters but I didnt disconnect the battery... I dont know if it was a charge or I hit a wire but all of a sudden sparks flew all over the place. I instantly tried to start the car to make sure a didnt blow the main fuse or something and the car wouldnt start for about 5 mins, finally I unhooked and rehooked the battery and then the car started... talk about nearly shitting a brick!!
                            Originally posted by Toyz
                            Originally posted by simplyred
                            what do you guys think about switching up the teams again?!
                            As long as i dont have to catch, i am all for it!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              ^yeah that would be pretty damn scary I have to say!
                              TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

                              Comment

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