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How to: Make LED tail lights work-without melting your car!

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  • How to: Make LED tail lights work-without melting your car!

    So, to start with you need your 2 LED tail lights (3157), 2 miniature bulbs, 2 bulb socket mounts, 2 wire crimps (or soldering iron if you are good), about 2 feet of 18 gauge wire in yellow, green and black and about 15-20 minutes.

    Step one: Open the trunk, pull back the liner on both sides of the trunk, remove the tail lights, remove the stock bulb, install the new LED bulb (make sure you put it in right, they only work one way) and then reinstall the tail lights - trying not to over tighten the nuts down and destroying the plastic lens!

    Step two: Take the 2 bulb sockets - I bought mine at NAPA for $3 each - that should look something like this...



    and solder/crimp the 2 ground wires to a piece of black wire (I used 18 gauge) long enough to get from the rear fuse panel to one of the grounding studs in thr trunk - driver's side, on the rear inside of the trunk. Then crimp a lug



    to the end of the black wire. You will also need to add on a length of wire to the 2 positive ends of the bulb mounts - the wire connected to the spring in the center of the cocket. I did not have the same size yellow and green wire, so I just used red and white. For this project, it really doesn't matter in the long run. As long as each turn signal wire gets one bulb wired to it.



    Step three: You need to find the wire bundle coming out from the rear fuse panel - driver's side - and gentle pull of the tape. They will be about 6 wires - you need to find the yellow one and the dark green one. My car has 2 light green wires as well - these are for the back-up lights. Pull back about 4 inches of tape and cut the yellow and dark green wire in the middle. Strip back about 3/8's of an inch of insulation on all 4 ends. Grab your 2 wire crimps, or soldering iron and connect one wire from the bulb mounts to each of the 2 wires you just cut.



    Like I said, I didn't have the same colors, but it really doesn't matter. Just make sure that each wire crimp/solder has the 2 original ends plus one of the bulbs wires all connected together.

    Step four: Once you have crimped/sodlered the wires together, tape them back up and make it look all nice 'n purty. connect the lug to one of the grounding posts near the opening the wire buindle runs through.

    Step five: For the time being, I just zip tied all of the wires up and made things look as good as i could. I am going to mount the bulbs to the little fin that sticks out past the fuse panel. but for now, they are just run through the fuse panel door in the trunk liner.



    Now, go get your keys, turn on the ignition and test your blinkers. This 1893 bulb draws about .5 amps, and should be more than enough for any kind of LED bulb you decide to buy. I am using the Spider Lite 5 arm led's, but have tried the other 2 kinds i purchased. All have worked without a hitch!

    Also, since these bulbs only come on with the brake, blinker or car alarm flashed, they do not get hot. In fact they should not really even get all that warm. But for safety sake, make sure that you mount or hang these bulb mounts away from anything that might catch fire...

    Science section: each of the stock 3157 bulbs draws about 2 amps when both filaments are lit. You only need to draw about .75 amps to fool the BCU into thinking a bulb is not blown.

    So, now you can enjoy your LED tail lights and not worry about melting your car!

    Have any questions, just PM me!
    Chao!
    Red LED interior, custom floor & trunk lights - LED marker lights, Spider Lite tail lights (used bulbs instead of resistor -ask me how!) - Formula One Pinnaacle 15% Tint - Hard wired Cobra radar detector - Dr. Speed Stage 3 CAI - next... white face gauges and a custom LED glove box light


  • #2
    Awesome write up. As soon as I can afford the LED's I'm doing this
    Blue Man Group

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    • #3
      great write up, nice work!
      TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

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      • #4
        Could we see some pics? Also, where do you get your bulbs? I bought some from Advance for my Caprice. Believe they were 2057s. Anyway, turns out they aren't all that bright. Are the 3157s bright?
        2005 Poncho G6 SE- 3.5L, tints, 70k
        1995 Caprice 9C1- LT1, 116k


        http://www.fallenofficermemorial9c1.org

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        • #5
          http://www.v-leds.com

          thats where i got mine. and im happy
          its might just be a family sedan, but girls love this car

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          • #6
            i have bought a couple from v-leds.com, but most of them are from autolumination.com

            only had one led out of the 2 dozen or so that i have bought that was faulty. i sent them an email saying the led failed and they were more than happy to replace it for free.

            I used Spider Lite led's for the tail lights. I bought red ones - am waiting to hear from Wicked if white ones work, could make the it appear orange, but we shall see.
            Red LED interior, custom floor & trunk lights - LED marker lights, Spider Lite tail lights (used bulbs instead of resistor -ask me how!) - Formula One Pinnaacle 15% Tint - Hard wired Cobra radar detector - Dr. Speed Stage 3 CAI - next... white face gauges and a custom LED glove box light

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            • #7
              ^^^ I just got them in the other day. With the tinted tails they weren't too orange, but I still didn't like it, they were a really weird shade of red. So I used it for my license plate light. Do you need one viper? I'll be glad to send it to you if you do
              Blue Man Group

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              • #8
                lol - i already have all 4 marker lights replaed with led's... but if you have 2 amber SpiderLites - we can talk
                Red LED interior, custom floor & trunk lights - LED marker lights, Spider Lite tail lights (used bulbs instead of resistor -ask me how!) - Formula One Pinnaacle 15% Tint - Hard wired Cobra radar detector - Dr. Speed Stage 3 CAI - next... white face gauges and a custom LED glove box light

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                • #9
                  Maybe it's me, but I was of the understanding that LED's by nature run cool. So why would anyone have issues with overheating???
                  2009 PONTIAC G8
                  MAGNETIC GRAY METALLIC

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                  • #10
                    resistor runs hot not the LED
                    Blue Man Group

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Wicked
                      resistor runs hot not the LED
                      Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

                      Thank you for da clarificatiohhhhn.
                      2009 PONTIAC G8
                      MAGNETIC GRAY METALLIC

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                      • #12
                        Good picts, nice how-to

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                        • #13
                          Re: How to: Make LED tail lights work-without melting your car!

                          Sorry to bring an old post to life, but is it possible to do this to the front signals as well? Which wires would it be and is there a place for the front signals where all the wires needed are all together? The wires in the trunk are nice because the left and right wires are both ran together for a period of time.

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                          • #14
                            Re: How to: Make LED tail lights work-without melting your car!

                            I finally got around to doing this tonight. I ran into one problem. The left turn signal went without a hitch, but the right turn signal acts like it has a bad connection. Sometimes it flashes fast, sometimes only the sidemarker flashes, and sometimes it flashes normally. When I would squeeze on the wires where I made the connection it would change so I redid the wiring three or four times to no avail. It's working right now, but I'm afraid it might go crazy. Any suggestions?

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                            • #15
                              Re: How to: Make LED tail lights work-without melting your car!

                              Did you solder the wires, or use crimp connectors? I highly recommend soldering the wires and using a good quality heat shrink. As for the side marker, i don't thnk those are supposed to flash - might be a problem. I will check my car out when i get home from work today and post.
                              Red LED interior, custom floor & trunk lights - LED marker lights, Spider Lite tail lights (used bulbs instead of resistor -ask me how!) - Formula One Pinnaacle 15% Tint - Hard wired Cobra radar detector - Dr. Speed Stage 3 CAI - next... white face gauges and a custom LED glove box light

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