I replaced both my outer tie rods after the driver side went bad. Nothing special about it but didn't see a how-to so figured I'd make one.
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I went with Duralast Gold replacements, I usually use OEM parts but the GM version doesn't have a grease fitting and the boot is garbage. If you purchase the parts I got make sure you check them before you leave the store. AZ uses multiple vendors and I got a different version (non-sealed boot) and had to have them re-order.
No special tools needed if everything goes well. A tie-rod separator is good to have, though.
- Jack car up, remove wheel, put car on stands. Helps if you turn the wheel to get better access to the tie rod.
- Break the jam nut free. Put a wrench on the nut and smack it with a hammer. Remember you're "technically" tightening it, so go clockwise. Just loosen it enough so its not touching the tie rod.
- Remove the nut holding the tie rod to the assembly. Its a nylon lock nut, its gonna be a pain to get off. Air tools help. Sticking a wrench between the boot and pushing up will usually work. Or if your part isn't rusted to shit you can put a wrench on the bottom of the threaded rod and use that as leverage.
- Note: Neither option worked for me, I ended up cutting the nut off on both sides. If you do this always cut the nut off, if you cut higher up its tapered so you'll screw yourself.
- Remove the tie rod. Mark where the old jam nut was (or reuse it), unscrew it and put the new one on. Its important to keep it in the same spot, if you don't you'll need to get an alignment right away. Doing this gives you some time to get it to the shop.
- Screw the new tie rod in, put it through the assembly and tighten. There's probably torque specs for this but I doubt it matters.
- Give your jam nut a good smack with a hammer.
- Put grease gun on sexy new zerk fitting and fill it up.
- Put wheel back on, lower car, torque lugs, take for drive. If everything seems good schedule an alighment as you can.
- Buy beer and enjoy being a manly man who changed his own tie rod ends.
_____
I went with Duralast Gold replacements, I usually use OEM parts but the GM version doesn't have a grease fitting and the boot is garbage. If you purchase the parts I got make sure you check them before you leave the store. AZ uses multiple vendors and I got a different version (non-sealed boot) and had to have them re-order.
No special tools needed if everything goes well. A tie-rod separator is good to have, though.
- Jack car up, remove wheel, put car on stands. Helps if you turn the wheel to get better access to the tie rod.
- Break the jam nut free. Put a wrench on the nut and smack it with a hammer. Remember you're "technically" tightening it, so go clockwise. Just loosen it enough so its not touching the tie rod.
- Remove the nut holding the tie rod to the assembly. Its a nylon lock nut, its gonna be a pain to get off. Air tools help. Sticking a wrench between the boot and pushing up will usually work. Or if your part isn't rusted to shit you can put a wrench on the bottom of the threaded rod and use that as leverage.
- Note: Neither option worked for me, I ended up cutting the nut off on both sides. If you do this always cut the nut off, if you cut higher up its tapered so you'll screw yourself.
- Remove the tie rod. Mark where the old jam nut was (or reuse it), unscrew it and put the new one on. Its important to keep it in the same spot, if you don't you'll need to get an alignment right away. Doing this gives you some time to get it to the shop.
- Screw the new tie rod in, put it through the assembly and tighten. There's probably torque specs for this but I doubt it matters.
- Give your jam nut a good smack with a hammer.
- Put grease gun on sexy new zerk fitting and fill it up.
- Put wheel back on, lower car, torque lugs, take for drive. If everything seems good schedule an alighment as you can.
- Buy beer and enjoy being a manly man who changed his own tie rod ends.
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