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Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

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  • #2
    Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

    The cheaper one is made by Durman which I have never heard of and the duralast one is the more expensive. Im thinking the duralast may be made of a stronger lighter metal. Whereas the Durman control arm may be a heavier metal.
    Custom Flowmaster Exhaust- CRAB Heat Shield- Tiger Ram- Painted Cals- Painted Grills- Eibach ProKit- Racingline S/B- Racingline G/K- Injen Air Intake- Spyder Headlights w/ DDM 5000k Lows- DDM 5000k Fogs- Plasti-Dip Solstice Wheels w/ 5mm Spacers/ Painted- Painted Intake Manifold- Hood Spacers- RotorPros Front/ Rear D/S Rotors- BMD-P Fr. Endlinks- BMD-P SS Brake Lines...

    Progression:
    http://www.g6performance.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=18485

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    • #3
      Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

      Go with the dorman ones, they have been making parts for longer than anyone on here has been alive, Since 1918. They are high quality parts. I had to get dorman A Arms for my old sunfire before i got rid of it. They are a name brand. Duralast is a no-name store brand. (Autozone brand) I would rather do the job once and get the better brand from the beginning.

      Dorman also makes many of the OEM Parts on GM cars. They are a big time supplier for GM.

      Dorman for the Win!

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      • #4
        Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

        Mine just went at 66,000 I get it back on tuesday
        K&N typhoon, Magnaflow Cat-back, Eibach Springs, Konig Rims, Sunny Tires,

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        • #5
          Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

          GRRRRRRRRRRRRR

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          • #6
            Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

            hearing stories and helps like these make me worry that itll happen to me and i cant afford it
            Cold air intake, racingline engine mounts, painted engine cover, tinted tail lights, resonator delete, red and black calipers, Flowmaster 50 series, black upper recessed grills,cobalt ss/tc rims, massive audio nano 800w amp, pioneer A series 460W speakers, pioneer double din touch screen headunit and debadge[color=#FF0000][

            My Progression:http://www.g6performance.com/forum/s...;s+progression
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            • #7
              Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

              Dorman is alright when it works/fits, your "Duralast" arm is more than likely an MCA control arm (cheaper Moog equivalent). Either/or will do, might go with Dorman.

              1994 Civic - 1995 240SX - (GTO sold)
              There are cars that take you from point A to point B, and then there are cars that eat your family, worship Satan, and purposefully transmit STDs.

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              • #8
                Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

                Thanks for the answers guys appreciate it!


                Cfeld - How much did it run you ?

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                • #9
                  Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

                  go with the dorman, it is the cheaper one the more expensive one is OE if you look at the actual number autozone woul;d be sending you

                  the 520-164 is dorman and is 134
                  and you also have different sides posted in the links??

                  LH and RH will be Different

                  Dorman is the best bet. if you go with the duralast and its not an OE they send you then your getting an overpriced chinesse piece where as dorman is made here and much better quality control and product.

                  ive been in GM parts for over 12Yrs too dorman does supply ALOT to gm

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                  • #10
                    Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

                    Glad i read this thread, I was just checking all around for prices on this.
                    My driver side ball joint is going
                    Anyone that's had this done know a good ball park price for this?
                    73,000 miles
                    My Progress thread
                    http://www.g6performance.com/forum/s...282#post429282

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                    • #11
                      Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

                      Just had my lower right control arm (passenger side replaced Friday). Feels tighter but still having some shimmy at around 60 mph gets worse with acceleration. Rotors where turned because the shimmy shake would get worse with braking. Could I need a tire balance? Or is it the tie rod ends? Who knows. Going back to the shop this Friday to inspect. Anyone have any good advice? Maybe what to look for....
                      Kicker KS 6930's 3-Way Rear
                      Kicker DS 650's 2-Way Front
                      Silver Star 4000k Low Beams
                      CRAB Intake : Full System Upgrade and Resonator Removed
                      Racingline : Engine Ground Kit
                      30% Tint Sides and Rear & Windshield Strip
                      Interior Door Trim at Handles and Driver Side Switch Housing : Black
                      Pontiac Dart Overlays : Front, Back and Steering Wheel : Black
                      Headlight Tint and Eyelids : Black, and Tinted Tails
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                      Chrome Exhaust Tip

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                      • #12
                        Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

                        I would say to get an alignment, After mine is replaced im getting one done.
                        And i need one cause i just lowered the car. Other than one of your tires not being balanced.
                        My Progress thread
                        http://www.g6performance.com/forum/s...282#post429282

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                        • #13
                          Re: Ball Joint bad at 42,000 Grrrrr

                          Had an alignment when replaced. Had tires balanced maybe a month ago. That is how I found out about the control arm. I'm wondering if one of my tires is out of round or something.
                          Kicker KS 6930's 3-Way Rear
                          Kicker DS 650's 2-Way Front
                          Silver Star 4000k Low Beams
                          CRAB Intake : Full System Upgrade and Resonator Removed
                          Racingline : Engine Ground Kit
                          30% Tint Sides and Rear & Windshield Strip
                          Interior Door Trim at Handles and Driver Side Switch Housing : Black
                          Pontiac Dart Overlays : Front, Back and Steering Wheel : Black
                          Headlight Tint and Eyelids : Black, and Tinted Tails
                          Partial DeBadge : GM Badges Removed
                          Chrome Exhaust Tip

                          Comment

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