Well it seems that on every forum I frequent, there are multiple threads at once asking, "how do I tint my tail lights!?". I for one have grown tired of them, so perhaps we could sticky this or just point people towards this. Some of the steps are extremely redundant, but sometimes people still ask me, "how do I get my tail lights out".
Using the products, Niteshades and spray clear
Step One: Open your trunk
Step Two: Remove the two black plastic retainers (normally will hold your cargo net up), pull back the carpet, and remove two 10 mm nuts. Remove the two torx (20) bolts that hold on the black trim around the trunk opening portion of the light assembly. Do this for both sides
Step Three: Remove third brake light just the same, minus the carpet. Remove two 10 mm bolts, release the silver prongs that are inside the trunk lid itself, and un-snap wiring connector with a flat head screw driver. No pictures here, figured it was pretty self explanatory.
OPTIONAL: SKIP TO STEP 7 IF YOU WOULD PREFER A SOLID TINTED TAIL LIGHT
Step Four: Thoroughly clean the tail light surface, particularly around the reverse lights.
Step Five: Mask with good quality masking tape, overlaping and over running the reverse lens surface.
Step Six: Trim around the reverse portion of the tail light. There is a slight groove around this area, so trace it with a pen if you coordination isn't all that good. This is the groove you want to cut along, if you go on the inside of it, you will have some clear portion tinted, go to the outside, and the ugly stock red will show. Take your time, this is one of the most crucial steps.
Step Seven: This step is not necessary, but I personally find that the product will both stick better and have a more even appearance. Scuff the surface with 1000 grit sand paper. try to do this in a similar motion across the entire tail light.
Step Eight: Clean the surface of the lenses with a wax and grease remover. This can be found at most automotive supply shops. I have seen people use windex for this purpose, as it is a strong ammonia based cleaner, but I still like to use the real stuff. I advise against the use of windex for this purpose. Once you have cleaned the surface, DO NOT TOUCH THE LENS SURFACE. If you are clumsy, wear some rubber gloves.
Step Nine: Once ready to shoot your nite shades product, give it one quick run over with a tack cloth or a lint free cloth to ensure there are no contaminants on the surface.
Step Ten: Spray one lite coat of niteshades over the lens, while holding the can at approximately 6 inchs from the lens. This is your tack coat.
Step Eleven: Spray as many flow coats of niteshades as you would like. A flow coat will be enough product to not look wrinkly or stubbly once applied. For my vehicle, I chose only one flow coat. I was looking for a mild tint, which would not attract much attention from the po po. I'd say this is what most light colored vehicle owners would want, but black and darker colors may chose to use two for that blacked out appearance.
Step Twelve: After waiting roughly 1 hour to allow the product to tack up properly, then apply a tack coat of clear coat. VERY light application is recommended, simply because I've seen adverse reaction with some clears and niteshades. I'm not sure if this is because of the outgassing process, or because niteshades is a etching product.
Step Thirteen: Apply a flow coat of clear. Try to avoid laying it on to heavy and getting runs, but if you do get one, don't worry too much. We can handle this in the sanding stages. Allow the clear coat to cure for an hour.
Step Fourteen: This is completely optional. I prefer to bake the product to aid the curing process. This is will also considerably cut down on the curing time. Set your oven on convection and 125 oF. If you cannot select a convection setting, I would recommend skipping this step as the direct heat may crack the lenses. Ensure proper ventilation. I have my stove vented directly into the exhaust fan for my microwave, however, I still used the vent on the microwave to pull what ever other fumes may be present.
Step Fifteen: Admire your finished product!
Luckily my lights didn't require any sanding or polishing. If yours do, feel free to PM me and I can walk you through the sanding and polishing process. However, the jizt of it is, wetsand with 2000 grit to remove knubs or runs. Have someone polish them with a orbital buffer, or if you'd like to attempt this yourself, pick up some body shop safe compound and polish. Go to town buffing them back to a gloss (this will take forever by hand, so be patient).
Pictures on the car in a bit.
Using the products, Niteshades and spray clear
Step One: Open your trunk
Step Two: Remove the two black plastic retainers (normally will hold your cargo net up), pull back the carpet, and remove two 10 mm nuts. Remove the two torx (20) bolts that hold on the black trim around the trunk opening portion of the light assembly. Do this for both sides
Step Three: Remove third brake light just the same, minus the carpet. Remove two 10 mm bolts, release the silver prongs that are inside the trunk lid itself, and un-snap wiring connector with a flat head screw driver. No pictures here, figured it was pretty self explanatory.
OPTIONAL: SKIP TO STEP 7 IF YOU WOULD PREFER A SOLID TINTED TAIL LIGHT
Step Four: Thoroughly clean the tail light surface, particularly around the reverse lights.
Step Five: Mask with good quality masking tape, overlaping and over running the reverse lens surface.
Step Six: Trim around the reverse portion of the tail light. There is a slight groove around this area, so trace it with a pen if you coordination isn't all that good. This is the groove you want to cut along, if you go on the inside of it, you will have some clear portion tinted, go to the outside, and the ugly stock red will show. Take your time, this is one of the most crucial steps.
Step Seven: This step is not necessary, but I personally find that the product will both stick better and have a more even appearance. Scuff the surface with 1000 grit sand paper. try to do this in a similar motion across the entire tail light.
Step Eight: Clean the surface of the lenses with a wax and grease remover. This can be found at most automotive supply shops. I have seen people use windex for this purpose, as it is a strong ammonia based cleaner, but I still like to use the real stuff. I advise against the use of windex for this purpose. Once you have cleaned the surface, DO NOT TOUCH THE LENS SURFACE. If you are clumsy, wear some rubber gloves.
Step Nine: Once ready to shoot your nite shades product, give it one quick run over with a tack cloth or a lint free cloth to ensure there are no contaminants on the surface.
Step Ten: Spray one lite coat of niteshades over the lens, while holding the can at approximately 6 inchs from the lens. This is your tack coat.
Step Eleven: Spray as many flow coats of niteshades as you would like. A flow coat will be enough product to not look wrinkly or stubbly once applied. For my vehicle, I chose only one flow coat. I was looking for a mild tint, which would not attract much attention from the po po. I'd say this is what most light colored vehicle owners would want, but black and darker colors may chose to use two for that blacked out appearance.
Step Twelve: After waiting roughly 1 hour to allow the product to tack up properly, then apply a tack coat of clear coat. VERY light application is recommended, simply because I've seen adverse reaction with some clears and niteshades. I'm not sure if this is because of the outgassing process, or because niteshades is a etching product.
Step Thirteen: Apply a flow coat of clear. Try to avoid laying it on to heavy and getting runs, but if you do get one, don't worry too much. We can handle this in the sanding stages. Allow the clear coat to cure for an hour.
Step Fourteen: This is completely optional. I prefer to bake the product to aid the curing process. This is will also considerably cut down on the curing time. Set your oven on convection and 125 oF. If you cannot select a convection setting, I would recommend skipping this step as the direct heat may crack the lenses. Ensure proper ventilation. I have my stove vented directly into the exhaust fan for my microwave, however, I still used the vent on the microwave to pull what ever other fumes may be present.
Step Fifteen: Admire your finished product!
Luckily my lights didn't require any sanding or polishing. If yours do, feel free to PM me and I can walk you through the sanding and polishing process. However, the jizt of it is, wetsand with 2000 grit to remove knubs or runs. Have someone polish them with a orbital buffer, or if you'd like to attempt this yourself, pick up some body shop safe compound and polish. Go to town buffing them back to a gloss (this will take forever by hand, so be patient).
Pictures on the car in a bit.
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