Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

**PLEASE READ BEFORE MODDING HEADLIGHTS**

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Re: **PLEASE READ BEFORE MODDING HEADLIGHTS**

    the stress marks your referring to is called crazing it happens to heat molded acrylic (plexi) over time due to the elements (sun light salt sll the fun stuff!)but it can also be speed up by reheating or reforming theres no wat to really aviod it it happens! but then you take the acrylic off the rest of the light it relaxes and flexes also alot of headlights are "welded" together if you take it apart reweld them with a ips weldon 3 or 4 its a plastic chemical weld it fuses the plastics together and is your best way to seal them! i prob should have mentioned i run a plastic warehouse and do light fab work! also too a little tip dont ever clean your headlights with Windex or anything containing ammonia acrylic is porous and when ammonia is absorbed it turns yellow=foggy hazy lights hope this helps

    Comment


    • #32
      Re: **PLEASE READ BEFORE MODDING HEADLIGHTS**

      I don't kow if this is where this belongs but thought I would add it here where it may be easily seen.

      This is a warrning to anyone that decides to use VHT on any lense. First I will say that I like VHT lense tint and what happened using it today was completely my fault and not the VHT lense tint.

      If you ever VHT a lense and it doesn't lay well. DO NOT use wax and tar remover to wipe the wet VHT off!!! It has some chemical reaction that turns the VHT into a super thick and hard dried super glue looking substance that nothing and I mean nothing will remove.

      After applying the tac coat I sprayed the first actual cover coat of VHT lense tint. Almost immediatly the paint started to crack indicating that something was still on the lense not allowing the paint to stick. I wanted to remove the paint before it dried so I could go over the lenses again with the wax and tar remover that I have used many times before, just not to remove wet paint. Almost immediatly after wiping the lens with a soaked towel of the cleaner it started to smear and turn. What I ended up with is a very thick white crust that was almost like dried super glue. I tried gasoline which usually does a good job of removing VHT with absolutely no effect. Next I tried acetone, then paint thinner. Finally I coated the lense in 15 minute paint stripper that will usually turn any paint finish several coats thick down to primer or metal with ease. It did nothing to this stuff at all.

      I spent 2 hours or more sanding with 80 grit just to get down to plastic just in front of the light bulbs. I have spent 2 more hours sanding with finer grit papers just to get the light sorta useful until my new set I had to order today comes in. The passenger light I wiped down with gas after the VHT dried didn't give me any issues and was coming off pretty good but whatever was still on the lense is making it much harder than usual. The only thing I can think of is the residue from the Wax and Tar remover making it this hard. I didn't get pics before I started to sand with 80 grit but the only difference is the cracking effect is missing that can still be seen in the passenger light that has already been wiped 5 times with gas.

      After an hour of sanding with 80grit. still very thick.



      The passenger light after 5 wipes with gas. 70% gone but you can still see the cracking effect of the VHT.



      This is where I quit. I gave up trying to remove all of it after 4-5 hours of sanding / polishing just to be able to see.





      Still needs a lot of work but new lights are on the way so will just hide the car at home until I get the new lights . I hope my disaster helps keep someone else from making the same mistake!!
      WAMS 91 tune,
      Racingline MMI's
      Chrome Intakes CAI (custom true ram air to come)
      35% side tint, 20% rear, 5% strip
      Debadged except GXP emblems
      Tinted tails
      Spyder tinted lights (complete rebuild + 4 projectors in design stage)
      DDM 5k HID Low's
      Polk 5000.5 amp, 12" Polk DXI sub, Pioneer 4way 6x9's. (complete system replacement soon)

      Comment

      Working...
      X