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Thread: Transmission Fluid Change

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    Transmission Fluid Change

    Hey guys, So I'm new to the forum and had a question about changing the transmission fluid. I have a 2008 G6 GT 4-speed auto with the 3.5 with 59,000 miles on it. I was wondering if anyone had went through this process and could maybe give me a couple tips. I had called the dealership and asked for a price quote on the tranny fluid change but he said all they would do is let 3-5 quarts leak out and the rest would be left in the torque converter and they would just replace whatever was leaked out and that was suppose to be my "50,000" mile tranny maintenance. Now instead of spending the $200 I know i could just do this myself, but I wanted to get some honest opinions on it first. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    basicaly what they are doing is removing the transmission pan replacing the filter and refilling. pretty much your best option

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    get a proper oil FLUSH and filter service, that method isn't the best

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    one thing to remember. this is the mistake i made. i looked in a fluid service guide that said the service capacity (what comes out during a filter change) is 7 qts. i dropped the pan, changed the fillter, then added 7 quarts through the red filler cap, started and ran through the gears and then shut it off. i removed the check plug and nothing came out, so i had someone start the car. it blew so much transmission fluid into my face that i was covered and the whole inside of the front bumper was covered as well. so i thought maybe checking it running is a mistake. but nothing had trickled out when i first took the plug out. so then i called the dealer and they said there's a certain method they can't explain ("mathematical formulations" and "flow rate ratio" i think were his exact words)and for 60 bux plus the cost of fluid they'll just do it for me. then i called aamco and the guy told me to take a half cooked steak to outback and ask them to season it for me, then call him back. then i finally talked to a manager of jiffy lube who showed me the proper way.


    v6 method: after changing the filter, when adding transmission fluid you take the 11mm check plug out of the front of the transmission. put in just 2 quarts through the red filler cap hole. start the engine and then add the rest ---slowly---- until it starts to trickle from the check plug hole. let it level itself off and then reinsert the check plug. drive around for a while so the fluid can expand and go to where it needs to and then remove the plug again and make sure its still trickling out a tiny bit. if not add a little bit slowly to the fill cap with it running until it does.

    I4 method: ecotec models dont have a removable pan, those ones have a drain which faces straight down and is the same as the check plug. to do a flush just drain it into a bucket that measures quarts, then reinsert the plug and add the exact same amount of new fluid. start engine. shift it through all the gears pausing for 15 seconds each gear. this will have the transmission flush all the new fluid through the torque converter and dilute the old fluid that was left over. stop engine and drain it again. repeat until the fluid is as good as you want it to look. when youre adding the fluid that youre gonna keep in there and not drain out, remove the check plug (on ecotec models i think its on the side above the drive axle, not facing front like on v6) and add slowly until it trickles like i described above, and recheck after a few days.

    these methods have worked out great for me, and we are now able to service g6's, g5, cobalts, ions, etc 4 cyl dipstick-less transmissions for our customers at my jiffy lube instead of saying "oh thats a sealed tranny. you gotta go to dealership" like we have to say for the early to mid 2000s ford explorers and toyota prius with no dipsticks. Transmission "drain and fill" service at jiffy lube where i work are only 69.99 with pennzoil dexron IV fluid. we don't use friction modifiers and base stock like some places. Just draining and refilling one time is supposedly sufficent to replenish the detergent, antifoaming agents, and anticorrosive agents, and to renew the fluid left over in the torque converter, which is why dealerships will only drain and fill it one time but we generally will do it 2 times if we think it still looks dirty.
    Last edited by Chris Conley; 08-24-2012 at 09:31 PM.

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    listen to me dude....learn from me....don't use anything else but what was in yur transmission for the past 60k miles....WHICH MEANS go to the dealership and ask for a flush!!!

    and believe me, they do flush it, how you ask???? because it IS a sealed transmission they flush it through the cooler lines. don't pay them 120 dollars for a tranny gasket and filter. go pick one up on amazon.com and bring it to them. all in all it will cost you 320 dollars. and that money will save you a huge headache...... I once put valvoline fluid in my tranny believing te hype and trying to save 200 bucks.....and I REGRETTED IT for 15k miles.....as soon as i sucked it up and went to the dealer for the flush. my tranny was born again. this is nothing to try and be cheap on. just go to the dealer and ask for a flush and bring youre own filter ang gasket. NOT JUST A DRAIN AND FILL

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Conley View Post
    one thing to remember. this is the mistake i made. i looked in a fluid service guide that said the service capacity (what comes out during a filter change) is 7 qts. i dropped the pan, changed the fillter, then added 7 quarts through the red filler cap, started and ran through the gears and then shut it off. i removed the check plug and nothing came out, so i had someone start the car. it blew so much transmission fluid into my face that i was covered and the whole inside of the front bumper was covered as well. so i thought maybe checking it running is a mistake. but nothing had trickled out when i first took the plug out. so then i called the dealer and they said there's a certain method they can't explain ("mathematical formulations" and "flow rate ratio" i think were his exact words)and for 60 bux plus the cost of fluid they'll just do it for me. then i called aamco and the guy told me to take a half cooked steak to outback and ask them to season it for me, then call him back. then i finally talked to a manager of jiffy lube who showed me the proper way.


    v6 method: after changing the filter, when adding transmission fluid you take the 11mm check plug out of the front of the transmission. put in just 2 quarts through the red filler cap hole. start the engine and then add the rest ---slowly---- until it starts to trickle from the check plug hole. let it level itself off and then reinsert the check plug. drive around for a while so the fluid can expand and go to where it needs to and then remove the plug again and make sure its still trickling out a tiny bit. if not add a little bit slowly to the fill cap with it running until it does.

    I4 method: ecotec models dont have a removable pan, those ones have a drain which faces straight down and is the same as the check plug. to do a flush just drain it into a bucket that measures quarts, then reinsert the plug and add the exact same amount of new fluid. start engine. shift it through all the gears pausing for 15 seconds each gear. this will have the transmission flush all the new fluid through the torque converter and dilute the old fluid that was left over. stop engine and drain it again. repeat until the fluid is as good as you want it to look. when youre adding the fluid that youre gonna keep in there and not drain out, remove the check plug (on ecotec models i think its on the side above the drive axle, not facing front like on v6) and add slowly until it trickles like i described above, and recheck after a few days.

    these methods have worked out great for me, and we are now able to service g6's, g5, cobalts, ions, etc 4 cyl dipstick-less transmissions for our customers at my jiffy lube instead of saying "oh thats a sealed tranny. you gotta go to dealership" like we have to say for the early to mid 2000s ford explorers and toyota prius with no dipsticks. Transmission "drain and fill" service at jiffy lube where i work are only 69.99 with pennzoil dexron IV fluid. we don't use friction modifiers and base stock like some places. Just draining and refilling one time is supposedly sufficent to replenish the detergent, antifoaming agents, and anticorrosive agents, and to renew the fluid left over in the torque converter, which is why dealerships will only drain and fill it one time but we generally will do it 2 times if we think it still looks dirty.

    This could go in How To Section. Thats good stuff.
    Last edited by Dopey85; 08-24-2012 at 10:00 PM.
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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    ummm the level checkplug is by the axle . the 11 mm plug that faces front is full line pressure. you pull that out while its running your going to get fluid EVERYWHERE

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    hey guys so i have never done a tranny service on my 05, should I? I was told it didnt need it but i am concern that it is about time. the current miles is 135k

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    Quote Originally Posted by 05G View Post
    hey guys so i have never done a tranny service on my 05, should I? I was told it didnt need it but i am concern that it is about time. the current miles is 135k

    I just checked your owner's manual and it states that it should be serviced every 50,000 miles depending if it is severe service or not. The page is 6-6.

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    Brandon -
    thanks for checking, I thought I was 100% on this but I really dont know. So know that it is established that it needs to be serviced every 50k what would be the recommended route for me now since its has 135k w.o no service?

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    yes i would like to know also whats the recommended route because i am running at 118K already and i have'nt done this

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    Quote Originally Posted by G6KinG19 View Post
    yes i would like to know also whats the recommended route because i am running at 118K already and i have'nt done this
    how do you NOT have transmission problems

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    the same way most people dont have transmission problems?

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    Once you break 70,000 miles it's recommended to NOT CHANGE YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID. The reasoning behind this are the little metal shavings, bits and pieces that inevitably fall off your transmission could actually be holding pieces in place or be critical to functioning in some way. Changing your transmission this late in the game could potentially move those bits and pieces essentially destroying your engine.

    This is what I've found to be true through a lot of research. If anyone knows any different, I'm open to hear it.

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    Re: Transmission Fluid Change

    Quote Originally Posted by ImperialBlue View Post
    Once you break 70,000 miles it's recommended to NOT CHANGE YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID. The reasoning behind this are the little metal shavings, bits and pieces that inevitably fall off your transmission could actually be holding pieces in place or be critical to functioning in some way. Changing your transmission this late in the game could potentially move those bits and pieces essentially destroying your engine.

    This is what I've found to be true through a lot of research. If anyone knows any different, I'm open to hear it.

    theres a thread on here, or g6oc i dont remember, that is about this same things and it actually says the same thing you just said. so id say your words are trust worthy

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