just done doing the plug and wire changes. they are really a POS to do especially the back ones.
to make others' life easier, i decided to do a to-do even i know there a bunch of similar threads. there are a few tips from my 5 hours' struggle. and hopefully with those tips, you can get it done in much less time than i did.
1. if you have just driven your 6, let it cool down for at least 45 minutes. by doing so, you wouldn't get hurt by the massive heat; more importantly, the torque applied on the plugs in normal temperature will decrease after being heated up. as a result, if you do it when the motor is hot, it will be over-tighten when the motor cools down.
2. if your motor is cool, you need to remove the intake piping to start working. (i think there's a to-do on that?)
3. there are a few plastic clips hoding the spark plug wires. use a screw driver to pop them open.
4. after the above steps, you should see where the front three wires go to. underneath each there is a spark plug. there are three on front.
5. pull the plug out. this is where all your working out pays off. you may twist while pulling to help it a little bit. a plug wire puller from any hardware store will help a lot. if all those fail, use a knife to cut the rubber connection (you wouldn't need those old wires anyways.) to get it off.
6. after the connection to the plug is off, follow the wire and find the position of the other end of the wire, which is connected to the distributor cap. get that off too.
7. now one wire is off, now use a socket wrench to get the exposed plug out.
8. use the same socket wrench to install a new plug into position. remember to hand tighten it first in case you mess up with the threads.
9. apply plenty of elctric grease in both ends of the new wires. electric grease will make your next plug and wire change much easier at the same time it amplifies electirc current. push both ends in to position. one on the plug and the other on distributor cap. when you hear or feel the click, it's tightened.
10. do not remove everything before start intalling, because YOU WILL MESS UP. just remove one and install a new one. follow the procedure and you will be alright. as installing is the reverse procedure of removing, i will now talk much into that.
11. after the front three is done, the back ones are a lot harder to remove. if you have STB, remove that.
12. remove the coolant tank. it's a plastic tank holding red/yellow/brown liquid. do not pull too hard. lift it and pop it out. there are two lines attached to the coolant tank. pull the bottom line off the tank. and move the coolant tank to somewhere not blocking your way.
some people choose to remove the distributor caps. i am not recommending that, because i think it's a lot harder.
13. now you find it a lot more comfortable to reach to the back with the coolant tank out the way. you will need to be on the front of the vehicle and get down like you are hugging the engine. your right arm should have plenty of room to stick back there.
14. follow the procedure as removing front ones. remember to get one done before start doing another. you will have to follow your hand not your eyes most of times. a puller, again, will help you a lot when it comes to the back.
15. after all the changes are done. remember to put everything back together. i almost forgot put the line back that i pulled off under the coolant tank. just double check everything before you close the hood.
that's all i can think of right now. if you have more tips suggestions, you are more than welcome to post it here as i will add it to the thread.