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How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

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  • #46
    Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

    So yesterday I went to replace my front brake pads, I undid the 2 bolts that hold the caliper together, and tried sliding the caliper off. Didn't work, so I tried putting the bolts back in, and upon doing so accidentally took the caliper off, which was good. (I guess I just need some muscle)

    After this was all done I realized my rotors were shot too, so I picked up some rotors today and replaced the whole deal in just over an hour. The 2 bolts that hold the caliper on are FRICKEN HARD to get off.

    One tip for you guys who are doing it, what I found was that if you position the breaker bar in a way that you are still loosening it but pulling up on the breaker bar using your arms and legs, they came out not too bad.

    Overall though once you do it on one brake its super easy to do it on all of them. Thanks for all the help!

    P.S. How much are your guys' rotors, mine seemed to be really cheap. 25$ CAD.

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    • #47
      Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

      Will be doing mine very soon (C-quece Absolute Cross and EBC Greenstuff pads). Will try to get pictures and do a more complete write-up (sizes and everything).
      "Cross creviced chasms vast, and endless plains of unshaven ass"
      ~~GWAR's description of Hell
      Skaði: 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP Street Edition

      Comment


      • #48
        Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

        AS PROMISED: THE COMPLETE WRITE-UP WITH PICS

        Okay, for starters, this write-up assumes 2 things:
        1: you already know what brake rotors and pads you want, including part numbers
        2: You know how to safely raise and support your vehicle.

        If you do not know how to do option 2, do not attempt until you know how. Also, since both side are essentially mirrored, assume each side is the same. These instructions were done on the 2008 GXP. Your car may vary slightly.

        Okay, for openers, As was said, Raise and safely support your vehicle.

        I'll start with the rear:
        Rear Caliper/Rotor Change
        When you have the tire removed, this is what you should see:

        Using a 14mm socket, remove the 2 caliper-to-bracket bolts on the inboard side of the caliper:

        The upper one may need an extender bar to reach. The lower one should be fine with just the socket:

        Note: On my installation, in order to reach the upper caliper-to-bracket bolt on the passenger side, i needed to remove the e-brake line cable mount on the car. Below, is how you do it: Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt from the inboard side of the car as shown:

        Now, lift the caliper off of the mounting bracket and pads, Note the position of the e-brake piston for later:

        Now, using the infamous "borg tool"...

        Twist the piston with the matching end down clockwise (extender bar shown., but not necessary). When the piston has gone down as far as it can go, make sure that the notch, as shown previously, points straight down towards the center of the hub/axle.

        Now, before removing the caliper bracket, move the caliper up to a position that will not stress its connection to the brake line. I just set it here, which worked:

        Okay, now remove the pads--they should slide easily out of the mounting clips. Note the position of the squeal bar on your pads. Mine was on the inboard pad on the side facing towards the ground:

        Now, remove the compression retaining washers in the way you see fit. Personally, in the many brakejobs I've done on my cars before, I've never re-used them; the lugs and the rims seem to hold everything in place just fine. It's up to you. if you do want to keep them, use a pair of needle-nose and not the wire-cutters that I used:

        Now using a 13mm socket (deep socket used--a normal one will work just fine), remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts on the inboard side of the bracket. Note the use of a cheater bar on mine--they are on there really tight:

        Once you've removed the 2 caliper bracket bolts, remove the caliper bracket:

        The rotor just slides off. Remove it, and at your discretion, use some brake cleaner spray to douse the assembly, and if needed, use a wire brush to clean the mating surface of the caliper and the hub.

        Now, slide your new rotor on, but note which direction you need to mount it if you're using a slotted, drilled, or dimpled rotor. My weaponry of choice in this instance was Cquence Absolute Cross Rotors for all 4 wheels:

        Now, put the Caliper bracket back on, line the holes for the bolts up and finger tighten first. Then tighten, and use the cheater bar to get them as tight as you can--within reason. Try to match the torque used to get them off:

        Now, place your new pads on. My weaponry of choice here was EBC Greenstuff pads. On these brand of pads you'll notice raised dots near the hub-side of the pads--one has two on the far outside, and one has 3, with the additional one in the dead center of the pad. The one with 3 must be the inboard pad! That center dot is what engages the E-brake piston. My pads also had the squeal-bar on the inner one. Anyhow, I can't speak for all makes, but just make sure you note which one goes where. They should slide easily in the retaining clips:

        Note, the pic was blurry, so you can't see that the center green dot has no raised portion, but this shows how it goes in:

        Now before mounting the caliper, use some anti-squeal on the outside of the pads and re-lube your pins:

        Then, mount the caliper on top and make sure that it fits down. if not. check the position of the E-brake piston and make sure the notch engages the raised dot:

        Reinstall the caliper-to-bracket bolts:

        Spray everything down with brake cleaner spray, and then repeat on the opposite side of the car. If you needed to remove the e-brake line mount, reattach it now. Congrats, you've got the rear brakes done!

        Front Caliper/Rotor Change
        Using a 14mm socket, remove the caliper to bracket bolts on the inboard side of the caliper. Same procedure as rear. Place the caliper in a location where again, it won't stress the brake line:

        Now, using a C-clamp:

        Compress the caliper piston into the caliper. You only need to do this until about 2mm of piston is sticking out of the caliper...any more and you may damage the caliper seal:

        Now, remove the existing pads from the caliper bracket. Note the position of the squeal bar. Mine was on the inboard pad, upper side:

        Now, remove the caliper bracket bolts on the inboard side. You'll need a 15mm socket and a cheater bar:

        Remove the caliper bracket:

        Compression washers:

        And rotor:

        Now, again, hose everything down with brake cleaner spray, wire-brush the hub/rotor interface if needed, and install your rotor Like before, if they are directional pay heed to the direction:

        Install the caliper mounting bracket:

        And line up both bolts:


        Finger tighten first. Then tighten and use the cheater bar to get them torqued down like they were. Now, to install the pads. My EBC Greenstuffs had the squeal bar separate from the pad itself:

        So, note the existing pad, and install to match:

        Alright, Now, place both pads into the caliper bracket, with the squeal-bar one in the proper location (there is no need to worry about e-brake dots here):

        Apply anti-squeal and lubricate the pins as needed. Then mount the caliper on top of the bracket:

        Install the caliper-to-bracket bolts:

        And tighten:

        Congrats. Now, repeat the same steps for the other side:


        Now, if you only did your rear ones, after you put your wheels back on and have safely lowered the vehicle, give the e-brake a few repeated tugs to re-engage the e-rake piston. If you just did the fronts, after putting the wheels back on and safely lowering the vehicle, pump the brakes a few times to re-engage the piston. if you did them all, do both. Then, admire your work on the fronts:

        And the rears:


        Now, for some miscellaneous tips:
        Road-test and break in the brakes per manufacturers recommendation.
        Make sure when you buy your brake cleaning spray, that the nozzle is not broken and sprays backwards as well.
        If you fail at that, make sure you wear safety glasses.
        If you fail at that, do not stand directly behind the can.
        If you fail at that, make sure you have some eyewash handy.
        Brake cleaning fluid in the eyes stings like mad.

        Enjoy, and I hope you all liked!
        "Cross creviced chasms vast, and endless plains of unshaven ass"
        ~~GWAR's description of Hell
        Skaði: 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP Street Edition

        Comment


        • #49
          Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

          Wow nice How to pics!!!

          Quick question, when applying the anti squeal. Do you apply it on the back of the pad or on the front where the pad meets the rotor????

          Gonna change my first pads on saturday!!! Hope it goes well!!
          MODSGT-R, HIDS 6000K, 8000K FOGS, 35% TINT, K&N INTAKE, CRAB HEAT SHIELD, Cquence Rotors

          Comment


          • #50
            Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

            You apply the anti squeal stuff on the back of the pads. Never put it on where the pad meets the rotor. just FYI.

            Comment


            • #51
              Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

              Ya, but now with my other issue I am screwed. lol

              Thanks for your help!!
              MODSGT-R, HIDS 6000K, 8000K FOGS, 35% TINT, K&N INTAKE, CRAB HEAT SHIELD, Cquence Rotors

              Comment


              • #52
                Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                you want to put the anti squeal/greese on every contact point of the rotors including the metal clips. Slather that stuff on EVERYTHING where metal touches metal including the backs of the pads where the shims are-both sides of the shims. If you greese everything they will NEVER squeal
                TRADED IN BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN: 2006 GT Coupe in granite metallic, 15/5% tint, vinyl side marker deletes, Doctor Speed Stage 3 CAI, RED calipers by DupliColor, RED LED interior lights, 45 LED tail lights, WideView 8000K HID coversion kit, Nokya Artic White fogs installed, running MoBil 1, FIRST ever granite metallic color matched headlights!! Color matched eyelids just finished! GT-R Exhaust installed. R1 Concepts drilled and slotted zinc plated front rotors.

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                • #53
                  Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                  Originally posted by LoJac963 View Post
                  you want to put the anti squeal/greese on every contact point of the rotors including the metal clips. Slather that stuff on EVERYTHING where metal touches metal including the backs of the pads where the shims are-both sides of the shims. If you greese everything they will NEVER squeal
                  Mine just had the back of the pads...they haven't squealed...yet. But as long as t's not on the pad/rotor...you should be fine.

                  Sorry I didn't get back to this sooner...ust got back from Slovakia & the Czech Republic.
                  "Cross creviced chasms vast, and endless plains of unshaven ass"
                  ~~GWAR's description of Hell
                  Skaði: 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP Street Edition

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                    how fuckin hard do you have to wrench on those caliper bolts on the inboard side....i used a ratchet, then a 18v impact gun and those suckers are goin no where fast
                    sigpic

                    2004 LS1 A4 Quicksilver w/ Red Interior 1 of 301 -

                    GO-K&N Intake, Spintech Exhaust, Pacesetter Headers, Catless Mids, Tuned using HPTuners By Rian

                    Turning and Stopping- Cquence Drilled and Slotted Rotors

                    Show- SAP Repros in Satin black, fake SAP mod, Tinted tails by Jorge, Satin Black Badges, 35% tint all around, Satin Black painted 17's, Flat Splitter

                    Electronics- Pioneer AVIC F90BT, JL 500.1 Monoblock Amp, JL 12W3-2, DDMTuning 8k 55watt HID hi/low, All Interior and Cluster LED Swap by Bohnman,

                    Fully modded G6 GTP-TRADED

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                    • #55
                      Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                      hard enough to brake them loose lol. they put loctite on them from teh factory so they can sometimes be a real bear to break loose

                      Remember if "the" and "and" are spelled right its not a genuine Ahuhn post


                      Dear God, please send clothes to all those poor ladies in Daddy's computer. Amen.
                      Originally posted by snowmanG6
                      you would try to tape a poptart to her then give her a bag a skittles and tell her to fart a rainbow

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                      • #56
                        Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                        Originally posted by ahuhn View Post
                        hard enough to brake them loose lol. they put loctite on them from teh factory so they can sometimes be a real bear to break loose
                        yeah ended up quelling them VIA breaker bar paired with some penetrating lube. once that hurdle was done it was easy.
                        sigpic

                        2004 LS1 A4 Quicksilver w/ Red Interior 1 of 301 -

                        GO-K&N Intake, Spintech Exhaust, Pacesetter Headers, Catless Mids, Tuned using HPTuners By Rian

                        Turning and Stopping- Cquence Drilled and Slotted Rotors

                        Show- SAP Repros in Satin black, fake SAP mod, Tinted tails by Jorge, Satin Black Badges, 35% tint all around, Satin Black painted 17's, Flat Splitter

                        Electronics- Pioneer AVIC F90BT, JL 500.1 Monoblock Amp, JL 12W3-2, DDMTuning 8k 55watt HID hi/low, All Interior and Cluster LED Swap by Bohnman,

                        Fully modded G6 GTP-TRADED

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                          FWIW... I did the rear pistons with just a pair of needle noise. Wasn't really that hard.


                          As for the hard to get bolts, since getting a cheater bar is a little bit of a pain, I just used a 6 point socket, wrench and a couple whacks with a mini-sledge, then hunkered down on it. I think all I used was a 13, 14, and 15 mm wrenches... I pulled that break pad holders off and cleaned/regreased the pins and repainted them as well.


                          I went a little too far on my rear pads...



                          I touched up my caliper paint, and I had painted my rotors too.
                          2007 Dark Gray Metallic G6 Sedan 3.5L v6 A4
                          Former cars... '85 Camaro, '94 Camaro, '00 Camaro, '92 Mustang GT

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                          • #58
                            Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                            Originally posted by MustangEater82 View Post
                            FWIW... I did the rear pistons with just a pair of needle noise. Wasn't really that hard.
                            ...
                            I know that method works, but I've heard there was a danger of slipping and gouging the piston seal. Knowing my luck, I figured I'd just spend the quiddage on the Borg tool rather than look at replacing the caliper seal.

                            But either can work.
                            "Cross creviced chasms vast, and endless plains of unshaven ass"
                            ~~GWAR's description of Hell
                            Skaði: 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP Street Edition

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                              honestly... I mean I guess there is a risk, but I don't see it being any worse then the borg tool... you are trying to squeeze or hold it, just twist it. Mine went in pretty easily, once I got them started.
                              2007 Dark Gray Metallic G6 Sedan 3.5L v6 A4
                              Former cars... '85 Camaro, '94 Camaro, '00 Camaro, '92 Mustang GT

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Re: How to Install Rotors + Brake Pads?

                                Originally posted by MustangEater82 View Post
                                Mine went in pretty easily, once I got them started.
                                sigpic

                                2004 LS1 A4 Quicksilver w/ Red Interior 1 of 301 -

                                GO-K&N Intake, Spintech Exhaust, Pacesetter Headers, Catless Mids, Tuned using HPTuners By Rian

                                Turning and Stopping- Cquence Drilled and Slotted Rotors

                                Show- SAP Repros in Satin black, fake SAP mod, Tinted tails by Jorge, Satin Black Badges, 35% tint all around, Satin Black painted 17's, Flat Splitter

                                Electronics- Pioneer AVIC F90BT, JL 500.1 Monoblock Amp, JL 12W3-2, DDMTuning 8k 55watt HID hi/low, All Interior and Cluster LED Swap by Bohnman,

                                Fully modded G6 GTP-TRADED

                                Comment

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